Polar Bears of Churchill (p. 2 of 2)
The tundra buggies are always in contact with each other via radio, in case of trouble or to report a bear sighting. It's not uncommon for several tundra buggies to follow a single bear. The bears generally do not react to the buggy's presence as long as we approach slowly and remain at least 20 yards (meters) from them.
Tundra buggies and small buses gathered around a resting polar bear
The key to polar bear photography, as in many types of wildlife and landscape photography, is patience; we would often watch a single bear for an hour or more before taking any pictures. With a constant wind and clouds, and with temperatures hovering around 15 degrees Fahrenheit (about -9 degrees centrigrade), it was still pretty balmy for the bears. As a result, they spend most of the time sleeping and trying not to overheat by moving too much.
Polar bear resting with head in snow Polar bear resting with its head tucked under its front leg Polar bear laying on snow-covered ground
Polar bear resting on ground, front paws tucked under Polar bear rolling on its back in willow
Mothers and cubs are occasionally seen, always on the lookout for any troublesome males that may be in the area to cause problems.
Mother and cub sitting at edge of pond Mother (standing on hind legs) and cub in willow Polar bear walking near field of long grasses
Adolescent males generally travel alone, but occasionally travel together or playfight.
Polar bear walking on ice-covered edge of Husdon Bay Polar bear sitting in windy spot near edge of ice-covered pond Close-up of polar bear head
Two polar bears resting in snow Two polar bears preparing to play fight Two polar bears play fighting at edge of pond
One polar bear pinning another on ice-covered pond Two polar bears standing on their hind legs and play fighting Close-up of two polar bears standing on hind legs and play fighting
Close-up of two polar bears locked together play fighting
Occasionally, a curious bear will approach the tundra buggy and investigate. If you're in one of the larger tundra buggies and keep your arms and legs out of reach, that's not so bad.
Polar bear on hind legs looking into small tour bus
The last few nights of the trip, we stayed on in the bunkhouse, a train-like line of five trailers that are placed on the tundra each autumn for polar bear season. Staying in the bunkhouse for a few nights had several significant advantages; the bears (and foxes) could come to us 24 hours a day whenever they were drawn by the scent of the food cooked for us or were simply curious, we could simply relax without the somewhat hectic pace of tundra buggy days, and it allowed us to experience the tundra more directly than we otherwise could.

The bunkhouse consists of two sleeping trailers, a general-use trailer, a dining/kitchen trailer, and a storage trailerr that contained our water, food, gasoline, and generator. The sleeping trailers were similar to those on a train; an isle down the middle with two rows of bunks on each side; an upper and a lower row. Each bunk had a small shelf to store items, and a small (perhaps 1 ft x 1 ft, or 30 cm x 30 cm) window to look out of, and a toilet/shower in the middle of the car. The general purpose trailer contained a number of chairs, and openable windows lining both sides. A stove in the corner kpet the car warm and provided a place to keep a pot of water hot for tea, coffee, or hot chocolate. The kitchen car had several comfortable tables and a large cooking area. In order to go from one car to another, we had to go outside onto platforms betwen the cars. The platforms had walls to waist level, and steel or aluminum bars above to keep bears out. The platforms, as well as the windows in the general purpose car, provided great locations from which to watch and photograph bear.

Visitors to the bunkhouse arrive by tundra buggies, which dock at one end of the bunkhouse. More urgent needs (such as repairs) are met by flying personnel to the bunkhouse on helicopters, which land right on the bunkhouse's roof.
Cars of the bunkhouse lined up on tundra Helicopter landing on roof of bunkhouse
Tim sitting on bed in sleeping car of bunkhouse Chairs and windows around edge of general-purpose car in bunkhouse Tim standing on balcony between two cars in bunkhouse
I was hoping to see the aurora while staying at the bunkhouse, but constant clouds kept that from happening. On two evenings, however, the clouds cleared a bit just as the sun was setting. On these nights, we had a beautiful view of the sunset itself; a brilliant yellow ball of flame embedded in a band of bright gold, with a pillar of yellow light (provided by ice crystals in the air) extending up into the sky above the sun. But to get the best view on these evenings, I turned my back to this spectacle, and was rewarded with the unforgettable sight of a polar bear slowly walking nearby, its fur turned to fire by the setting sun.
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